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Let’s start with the rear door:
First, unscrew the two Philips head machine screws that hold the flip-out window latch to the door frame. Swing the latch toward the window to get it out of the way. Then the upper trim panel pulls straight away from the door. You may want to slide a thin screwdriver (wrapped with masking tape or similar) between the trim and the doorframe and gently pry each clip from its slot. These clips are pretty tight, and feel like you are gonna break something when you first start pulling on the panel. As shown, there are two clips at the back (hinge side) of the door and three at the front. Just be careful and take your time. When re-installing, just line up the clips and pop them back in. a little “pop” with the palm of the hand over each one does the trick.

This exposes the fasteners for the lower trim panel. There is one nut, two screws, and one plastic rivet. to remove the plastic rivet, push gently on the dot in the center until it just snaps in; don’t push it out the back. This releases the tension on the rivet. while it is out, push the center part back out the front to make it ready to put back in. The screws and nut work in the usual way. Now, just lift up to release the tabs and the panel pulls away. Don’t try to pull out on the panel until you have lifted in up enough to completely disengage the tabs (i.e. don’t force it).

I chose to use Dynamat, so I had to peel off the plastic barrier. Just be careful, take your time, and the barrier will peel off pretty easily. This is how it looked after the Dynamat was fitted. I took the piece I cut out for the speaker and stuck it to the inside of the outer skin, just to help deaden any resonance that may occur.

The new speaker is in, after installing the Dynamat and replacing the factory plastic barrier. To help align the barrier sheet, note that there are two little bumps in the sheet metal (at the top corners) that line up with holes in the barrier.

Reinstallation is generally just the reverse of the disassembly process. Line up the tabs on the panel with slots in the door, and slide them down until seated and the screw holes line up. Reinstall all four fasteners and replace the upper trim panel. Be careful with the screws that hold the window latch! Unlike most of the screws you will deal with in this project, these go into threaded inserts that appear to be made of brass. Don’t cross thread them! It may help to have someone press on the window from the outside to help line the holes up.

Now we tackle the front door. First, the trim piece at the rear of the window is popped out. It is held with two of the same type of clips that hold the rear door upper trim. Again, gentle prying may help to get this piece off.

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