Automotive Manual, Car Parts and News

Step 1: Position truck on a flat surface and lift front wheels off of ground using jack stands or a (2) two post lift if available, and remove the driver’s side front wheel. Next loosen and remove the Upper ball joint nut, Tie rod nut and Sway bar nut on the same side of the vehicle. Make sure to use a floor jack to support the weight of the spindle so that damage to the ABS wiring or brake line does not occur. A hammer may be needed to break the ball joint and tie rod free.
Special Note: On 4 Wheel Drive models you must remove the Drive Axle Bolts. Be sure to use the correct tool on these 12mm 12 Point Bolts.
FAILURE TO REMOVE THE DRIVE AXLE WILL MAKE THE STRUT ASSEMBLY DIFFICULT TO REINSTALL.
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Diesel Turbo Lifesaver (DTLS) is a computer controlled device that allows you to set an automatic engine idle sequence to properly cool your turbocharger before engine shutdown as required by Ford and Navistar. Failure to follow recommended turbo cooling procedures can lead to premature bearing failure that is NOT covered under the factory warranty. Installing your Diesel Turbo Lifesaver is easily accomplished with common hand tools in a short period of time with little (security features enabled) or no wire cutting (security features disabled). No other product is engineered specifically for your Ford pickup, and thus requires extensive wire cutting and probing that can damage electronics or void your factory warranty. In order to make your installation go as smoothly as possible, it is recommended that you read the instructions and plan your installation before starting.
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The mounting procedure outlined below covers 1992 – 1996 FORD F150 trucks. You will need to refer to the illustrations and familiarize yourself with each of the undercarriage components and their relative position to each other. Then proceed as follows:
1. Remove the front bumper. If the truck is equipped with a front stabilizer bar, remove the stabilizer frame mounts, allowing the stabilizer bar to hang freely. The stabilizer bar will be reattached later. Position the push beam support plates (Ref. 62A and 62B, Fig. 1) to the front frame rails of the truck. Using the 1―”- 13 x 1- ―” bolts, ―” self locking nuts, and ―” flat washers provided, bolt the PUSH BEAM SUPPORT PLATES in place (see Fig. 1). Fasteners should only be finger tight.
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The contents of these kits have been specifically designed for the original equipment AODE/4R70W STAMPED STEEL (GROB) direct clutch drum. This stamped steel style drum is also used as a replacement part when ordering a NEW drum for AOD (non-electronic) transmissions since the cast iron drums for 1980 through 1990 AOD’s are no longer being manufactured.

IDENTIFYING THE TWO DIFFERENT ORIGINAL CAPACITY DRUMS
There are two different drum setups used by the Auto Maker. One drum has an original five friction plate capacity while the other drum has a six friction plate capacity. Between the two setups, the drum and pistons are the same dimension. The difference is the design and thickness of the top backing plate which is easily distinguished. The five plate setup uses a top apply plate with a double step design. The outer step of the plate measures .380″ in thickness while the inner step measures .230″ in thickness. The six plate setup uses a top backing plate that is flat (no step) on both sides and measures .220″ in thickness.
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TOOLS REQUIRED: #2 Phillips screwdriver, hook tool, 9/32” & 5/16” sockets & driver, telescopic magnet, 5/64” drill bit and drill, protective cloth, marking pen.
PARTS INCLUDED: Pro.Fit VSMTM , instructions, two (2) # 10x 5/8” screws.
LOCATION: To the right of the radio
STEP 1. Begin by removing the simulated wood grain bezel that surrounds the ashtray. Insert the hook tool behind the upper right corner of the bezel just below the climate control. Pull toward you to release the right clip. Perform this same action in the upper left corner. Set the bezel aside. Using the 9/32” socket and driver remove the two screws that hold the ashtray module in place. Set the screws aside. Grasp the ashtray module and carefully pull it out of it’s cavity just enough to gain access to two 5/16″ hex head screws that hold the radio and climate control unit in place. Using the 5/16″ socket and driver and a telescopic magnet remove the two screws that hold bottom section of the radio and climate control unit. NOTE: Use the telescopic magnet to make sure the screws do not fall behind the dash. Set the screws aside.
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These heads require professional head preparation.
#61099 - This Victor Small-Block Ford cylinder head is designed for ultra high-performance 302 and larger displacement Ford Windsor V8s. This head is based on the #77099 Victor cylinder head along with the valve guide and seat location changes. The ports were designed by Billy Glidden and digitized by Chapman Racing. The heads are fully CNC-ported by Chapman Racing. The valve seats have a multi-angle valve job and the valve guides have been honed to accept a .3410” dia. valve stem. Proper valve sizing should always be checked. Out of the box, these heads on a 360-ci engine have produced 750+ Horsepower.
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Before Starting Installation
1. Carefully read all warnings and instructions completely before beginning.
2. Verify all parts have been received in this kit by checking the parts list at the end of this document.
3. Only install this kit on the vehicle for which it is specified. If anytime during the installation you encounter something different from what is outlined in the instructions, call technical support at (928) 636-3176.
4. Special tools needed:
a. 17/64” drill bit
5. Park vehicle on a clean, dry, flat, level surface and block tires so vehicle cannot roll in either direction.
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FLARE INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
Step 1: Painting (Optional)
(A) It is recommended that painting be done prior to installation.
(B) Sand (optional) before application of paint.
(C) Clean outer surface with a high-grade degreaser. DO NOT USE
LACQUER THINNER OR ENAMEL REDUCER AS A DEGREASER. Wipe outer surface thoroughly with a tack rag prior to painting.
(D) Paint flares using a high quality lacquer, enamel, or polyurethane automotive paint. Application of a primer coat is optional.

Step 2: Preparing the Work Area (Front and Rear)
(A) Remove factory fender trim and mud flaps (when installed).
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Before Installation
Qualifications
• To properly install an electronic siren: you must have a good understanding of automotive electrical procedures and systems, along with proficiency in the installation and service of safety warning equipment. Always refer to the vehicle’s service manuals when performing equipment installations on a vehicle.

Sound Hazards
• Your hearing and the hearing of others, in or close to your emergency vehicle, could be damaged by loud sounds. This can occur from short exposures to very loud sounds, or from longer exposures to moderately loud sounds. For hearing conservation guidance, refer to federal, state, or local recommendations. OSHA Standard 1910.95 offers guidance on “Permissible Noise Exposure.”
• All effective sirens and horns produce loud sounds (120 dB) that may cause permanent hearing loss. Always minimize your exposure to siren sound and wear hearing protection. Do not sound the siren indoors or in enclosed areas where you and others will be exposed to the sound.
• Federal Signal siren amplifiers and speakers are designed to work together as a system. Combining a siren and speaker from different manufacturers may reduce the warning effectiveness of the siren system and may damage the components. You should verify or test your combination to make sure the system works together properly and meets federal, state and local standards or guidelines.
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Tools required: - Vehicle ramp or Jack and axle stands, T25 Torx driver, T30 Torx driver, 8mm spanner, 10mm socket, ratchet and extension bar, Pozzidrive screwdriver, Flat blade screwdriver, Trim removal type tool, Protective clothing, footwear and eyewear are also recommended.
1. Raise the vehicle on a ramp or place on axle stands. Open bonnet. Remove the six plastic screws from the upper slam panel/radiator cowling; remove this cowling and then the 2 plastic screws underneath this. Remove the single top T30 screw from each headlight, slide the headlights forward and release the electrical connections, completely remove the 2 headlights. Remove the 2x T30 screws from the front edge of each front wheelarch, remove the single 10mm bolt from the upper front edge of each front wheelarch. Remove the 3x 10mm screws from the bumper to wing/fender line on each side of the front bumper. Unclip the 7 upper plastic tags on the front bumper. Remove the 2 plastic screws from the underside of the front bumper. Disconnect the front fog light electrical connections. Disconnect the bonnet release lock from the front grille. If the car has headlight washers then remove the covers by simply extending the jets and unclipping the covers. The front bumper cover can now be lifted clear of the vehicle.
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